Posts Tagged ‘luke joyner’

Olive Ciabatta

March 15, 2010

From Luke Joyner

[Ed: Luke brought this, and the chorizo cornbread that follows, on a whim – and fresh out of the oven to boot. Adapted from basic ciabatta in Rose Levy Beranbaum‘s Bread Bible, this recipe doesn’t actually take very long in active time, says Luke, but you’ll have to budget a night and most of the next day in total.]



1 cup plus 1 tablespoon unbleached all-purpose flour
1/8 teaspoon yeast
1/2 cup water, room temperature


Scant 2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon yeast
1 teaspoon salt
1 cup water
1/4 to 1/3 pound pitted kalamata olives


The night before you plan to bake the bread, right before you go to bed, make the starter.

Combine the flour and yeast, then the water. Mix with a wooden spoon for 5 minutes. It will be sticky; do the best you can. Put in a slightly oiled plastic quart container, put the cap on, and leave overnight at room temperature.

The next day, make the dough.

Mix the flour and the yeast until fully combined.

Add the salt to the flour/yeast mixture (do not do this until the yeast is fully mixed into the flour; otherwise, the salt will kill the yeast). Then add the water and all your starter, and stir to combine with a wooden spoon, just until the dough is combined enough that you can use your hands.

Knead the dough for 5 minutes with your hands, pressing it down and folding it into itself to increase air content. Place in an oiled bowl, covered with plastic wrap, and set aside.

Let the dough rise in a slightly warm place. About 2 hours will do … the dough should be doubled or tripled in volume.

Shape the dough and let it rise again.

Turn the dough out onto a slightly oiled counter, and shape (handling as little as possible) into a long rectangle. Place half of the olives on one third of the rectangle, and push them into the dough slightly. Fold that third over onto the middle third of the rectangle. Place the remaining half of the olives atop the now double-height middle portion. Fold the final third of the dough over this, so that you have a dough/olive/dough/olive/dough sandwich. Poke the top of the dough down with your fingers. Push in the sides of the dough slightly. Repeat the poke/push a couple times.

Flip the dough over onto a sheet tray lined with parchment paper. Cover with oiled plastic wrap, and let rise again, about 1 hour in a slightly warm place.

Bake the bread. 30-45 minutes before baking, preheat your oven to 475 F. If you have multiple sheet trays, put one in the oven as you preheat. Put a pan on the floor of the oven that can withstand that kind of heat.

When ready to bake, remove the plastic wrap, brush the surface of the bread with olive oil, and sprinkle a little salt on it. Put the bread’s tray into the oven, nesting in the other sheet tray that’s already in there. Throw two handfuls of ice cubes into the pan on the floor of the oven, and quickly close the door.

After 5 minutes, reduce heat to 450 F. Continue baking for 20 minutes after this. Turn the oven off, and open the door halfway for 5 minutes before removing the bread.

Let bread cool. Transfer bread to a wire rack to cool. Eat and enjoy!


Chorizo Cornbread

March 15, 2010

From Luke Joyner


1 pack loose chorizo sausage (the exact amount can be variable)
2 cups plus 1 tablespoon self-rising white cornmeal (get it in the south if you can)
2 cups buttermilk
2 eggs
1 cup liquid fat (you’ll get some of this from cooking the chorizo … the remaining fat should be canola oil)
1 teaspoon salt


Preheat oven to 400 F.

Cook the chorizo in a cast iron pan (ideally 15″, but 12″ is OK) until broken up and browned. Remove all the sausage from the pan. Pour excess liquid fat into a one-cup measure, and top off the cup with canola oil. Without cleaning the pan (which should still be coated in a bit of fat, but no solids), put it immediately in your preheating oven.

Mix together all the ingredients in a large bowl, with a whisk, until fully combined. There should be no clumps of cornmeal.

When the oven is hot, remove the (empty) cast iron pan and place it on a medium burner. As quickly as possible, pour the batter onto the pan, getting all of it out with a spatula. Return the pan to the oven and cook for 20 minutes, or until the bread is firm and starting to brown on top.

If you have a broiler that can apply direct heat to the top of the bread, put the bread in this for a minute or two to further brown the top, carefully watching to make sure it browns but doesn’t burn. If not, just turn the oven to its highest setting, and leave the bread in the oven a few minutes more.

Remove the bread from the oven and let cool. It should be easy to remove from the cast iron pan with a spatula.

(Rather) Stout Turkey Soup

February 20, 2010

From Luke Joyner

Makes about 1 gallon

[Ed: This soup was possibly the most x-treme soup we’ve had at Soup and Bread this year, full of strong, almost discordant flavors. It’s probably not a soup for everyone, but after a few spoonfuls I submitted to its challenge.

Says Luke, “The idea behind this recipe was to create something a little sweet, a little savory, that uses up things you might have around for other reasons but creates something totally new and different. With that in mind, the work behind it could either be a lot (if you make everything homemade like I did) or much less (if you substitute in store-bought ingredients). Disclaimer: I follow the old grandmother method of making most things, definitely including soup, which means that measurements should be taken with several grains of salt.”]


12 cups thick turkey stock
2 cups thick tomato sauce
3 12-ounce bottles chocolate stout (I’d recommend Brooklyn Black Chocolate Stout. I used Fort Collins Chocolate Stout, though, cause the store was out of Brooklyn.)
balsamic vinegar
chile paste
grenadine syrup
1 small loaf ciabatta bread, ripped into chunks
2 cups whole milk
4 ounces semisweet chocolate
raspberries, pistachios and chocolate chips for garnish


Make or purchase stock, tomato sauce, chile paste, and bread. It’s important that both the tomato sauce and stock are rich and thick…. Also, if your tomato sauce is not tangy (I make mine with balsamic vinegar in it already) then you should add more balsamic vinegar. (See below for the exact recipes I used for stock*, chile paste**, and tomato sauce***.)

Combine stock, tomato sauce, and beer in a pot, and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to simmer. Add vinegar and chile paste (between a half-cup and a cup each), grenadine (a tablespoon or so) and salt to taste. Proportions of all these will depend on how spicy/sweet/savory you want the soup. Let simmer to reduce a bit, and to boil off the foam of the beer.

Add bread to the soup, and let simmer until the bread is soaked through and soft. Blend the soup in batches small enough that your blender can handle on a high speed, until completely smooth, collecting finished batches in a new pot.

Once the whole soup is blended, return to heat, stir to combine, and add the milk and chocolate. Stir until chocolate is melted and soup fully combined. Remove from heat, and serve hot topped with pistachios, fresh raspberries, and more chocolate chips if desired.

*Turkey Stock

I made the stock for this soup from the carcass of a 22-pound turkey. If you have that luxury, simply saute some roughly chopped carrots, celery, and onion in a huge pot until soft. Add water, the turkey carcass, and all remaining parts of the turkey you don’t want to eat. Bring to a boil, reduce heat, and let simmer for at least 10 hours, preferably more, adding water as needed. The turkey should completely decompose and all bones will separate from all flesh.

Strain the stock into a new pot, first through a rough strainer and then through a finer one. Bring to a boil and cook down until stock thickens. Salt to taste. Let cool and refrigerate. When cool, skim fat off the top of the stock and reserve it for future use. Keep the stock in glass jars or quart containers. If you’re not going to use it within a few days, freeze it.

**Chile Paste

Saute a mix of fresh chiles, chopped, and canned chipotles in oil, with the exact ingredients based on how spicy you like things. Reduce heat and let cook until combined into a thick paste.

***Tomato Sauce

Cut a few large onions in thin strands and mince some garlic. Caramelize the onions, with the garlic in there too, on low heat until golden brown … don’t skimp here, take the time! Once the onions are golden brown, turn the heat to high and add the vinegar. Let it boil off (but don’t breathe it in!) until the onions are nicely coated.

Add two cans of crushed or whole tomatoes (find a brand that involves *only* tomatoes) and one small can of tomato paste. Pour in a generous amount of balsamic vinegar, and an equal amount of red wine. Let simmer on very low heat for at least an hour, preferably more, stirring occasionally, adding liquid only if necessary. The result should be a thick, tangy sauce, great for use on pizzas or pasta or whatever.

Week seven

February 19, 2010

February 17, 2010: The night of no vegetarian soups.

I’d like to just take a moment to address the issue, which most of you were pretty gracious about, though a few were a little miffed.

Every week I try to ensure that there will be at least one vegetarian soup on the roster. But, as the cooks are volunteering their time and their ingredients, I don’t feel it’s right to tell them what to make. This is supposed to be fun and fulfilling for cooks and eaters in equal measure!

That said, this week was an anomaly. Two cooks dropped out at the last minute: one I knew was a vegetarian, the other I’m not sure about, but, regardless, I was scrambling to make sure we had enough of *anything* to eat this Wednesday. The vegetarian thing?  It fell through the cracks.

So I am very, very sorry if anyone came to Soup and Bread this week and was disappointed. We certainly don’t want anyone to go away hungry! But I do also feel that the unscripted, roll-the-dice-and-take-your-chances aspect of Soup and Bread menu planning is part of the deal. I mean, it’s free soup. Some weeks we wind with 6 vegetarian soups; other weeks (like this one) even the purest-looking stews have chicken stock hiding beneath their chickpea and lentil trappings. What’s a girl to do?

L-R: Tamiz, Chuck, Andrea, Luke, and Megan

Anyway — as I said, most people were gracious about this weird fluke. And the soup we did have was awesome. On with the recap!

On deck:

Tamiz Haiderali, chef and owner of Treat Restaurant, with a creammmmy goat cheese bisque.

Chicagoist food and drink editor Chuck Sudo, with smoky chicken and sausage gumbo. Sadly, his hoped-for cornbread decided to stick to the pan and stay home.  Sometimes food has a mind of its own.

Lost in the Supermarket‘s dynamic duo of Andrea Deibler and Allison Stout, with their own corn muffins and some seriously beefy chili (though, I thought they were bringing potato-leek soup?).

Writer, designer, and caterer Luke Joyner, who at one point told me he was cooking up some roasted garlic soup, instead whipped up one of our most x-treme soups ever, a dark, funky, turkey-and-stout soup served with pistachios, fresh raspberries, and chocolate chips.  Whoa. He also brought some homemade ciabatta.

And, holding down the end over there, registered dietician and Chicagoist writer Megan Tempest, with a protein-packed Moroccan chickpea and lentil stew. (Check out her nice writeup here.)

I should have recipes for this wild and woolly bunch of soups up soon — and breads too, I promise. I have a major backlog of recipes provided by busy baker Rae Hill that I still need to transcribe. (Did I mention that I’ve also been floored by this damn cold that’s going around?) But, that rockin’ Parmesan bread is first up, I swear.

This week Chef Kraus’s class generously provided 15 loaves (!), a mix of Normandy Apple, Sweet Rustic, and Country Wheat breads. This was a hearty supplement to the baguettes and ciabatta donated by our friends at La Farine Bakery. They don’t have a website, but Here’s a good overview of their outfit from LTH Forum’s happy_stomach, who’s spearheading plans for an all-LTH Soup and Bread night on March 24.

Celeste and Devon also came by with truffles and bacon pralines (!!) left over from Celeste’s Valentine’s Day sale and tasting last weekend at Juicy Wine Company. I couldn’t make it out of bed to attend, but she says there may be another one in the works for next month. We’ll keep you posted. Because, holy cr*p those truffles were good.

Also in the house, Erin Stephens, director of volunteers for Lakeview Pantry, on whose behalf we raised a whopping $551, setting another new Soup and Bread record.  Frankly, folks, it didn’t *seem* that crowded — I can only guess that even the disappointed vegetarians tossed a little somethin’ in the pot. Otherwise where’d all that cash come from? (Seriously, you people rule.)

And, that’s all for this week. Next week: so much vegetarian soup the carnivores will revolt. I promise. And I’ll post that schedule soon.

Soup cooks 2/17/10

February 12, 2010

I’m paying the price for last week’s excitement — a hedgehog has built a nest in my throat and periodically tosses out bits of one lung. So, of course, I am hopelessly behind on multiple fronts. But, here’s who’s on soup duty next week:

Graphic designer and caterer Luke Joyner

Chicagoist food and drink editor Chuck Sudo

Chicagoist food and drink writer Carrie Becker

Chicagoist food and drink writer Megan Tempest


Lost in the Supermarket‘s Allison Stout and Andrea Deibler

Donations from this week’s Soup and Bread benefit Lakeview Pantry. See you Wednesday!

ONE MORE COOK JUST ADDED: Tamiz Haiderali, chef/owner of Treat Restaurant.